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Unexpected delight in a rugged environment


Connemara famous for it’s rugged natural beauty is a place where the local conditions can and do change very quickly. On bright sunny days, the relative raw unspoilt natural environment can be simply breathtaking, but there are also reminders of difficult and harsh conditions. Setting out from the Glann Road in Oughterard and heading westward along the Great Lough Corrib, one passes through a beautiful wooded area. Reminiscent of scenes by Tolkien, the sunrays penetrate deeply through the tree canopy and shafts of light touch the lush smooth grassy covering of the forest floor.
Before reaching the boarded walk of the Western Way which leads to Maam, there is plenty of rugged natural beauty to be admired along the route. Craggy outcrops, open expanses of water, hills and mountains, faint sounds of birds. There is little reminder of human present, apart from an occasional walker, here one is more likely to encounter aimless rambling sheep than humans. The sound of winds blowing across the lake or through the often leaning trees is more likely to drown the sound of distant birdsound. Concentration is required in order to hear muffled distant birdsong.
Today lucky with the weather, the sun was high and bright and with a brisk walking pace one did not take notice of the cooling easterly winds blowing across the lake. Finding a suitable place to rest amongst the random rock was not difficult, nestled beside a large boulder provided great shelter from the wind and a natural suntrap from which to admire the panoramic beauty. The combination of stunning vistas and natural silence is irresistable and soon the mind and body drift into a meditative trance. Coming here one is less but better for the unexpected delight of this beautiful but rugged environment.






Firm reminders of soft margins
Although the lingering roadsigns are perhaps recent reminders advising road users of road closures along the Pier Road in Oughterard due to flooding, there are still plenty of firm reminders of nearby flooding that the warning notices of soft margins are hardly required or indeed necessary?
Although a casual visitor might be impressed by the apparent nearness and expanse of water on bothsides of the Pier Road, levels are still very high. The ditches which run along bothsides are as much as 1.0m – 2.0m deep and many are overflowing. More worrying for local residents is the nearness of high water which contiunes to spread from the local Owenriff river which appears to have become submerged within the new expanded waterscape. The Pier Road leads one to the Great Corrib lake and here too high water levels can be seen. Current levels are as much as 2.0m – 3.0m above normal levels, quite staggering when one considers that the Corrib lake which has depths of up to 50m making it even deeper than Galway Bay! The swans might be enjoying the newly expanded habitat of ‘Soft Margins’ but I would doubt very much if anyone else would see the current conditions so.
Grand views by the Glann Road, Oughterard
The joy of it all! A stroll along the Glann Road, within a stone’s throw distance of Oughterard and the nearby Great Corrib lakeshores. Connemara looks well any time of the year, but during these late Autumnal days when daylight seems to take on an even more vivid brightness causing the colours of the surrounding natural landscape to become an even more rich and varied tapestry of vivid greens, rustic browns and light purple sage. 
Although the sun shines brightly, more light than heat at this time of year, illuminating a palette of rich autumn colours. The singularly striking impression however is one of great peace and tranquility broken only occasionally by the scattering chatter of fleeing robins and goldfinches.
Connemara Natural Stone walling
In Oughterard where for many people Connemara begins, can be seen a wide range of natural stone walling, from the rough random rubble stone types to the more refined dressed stone finishes. I am always impressed to see natural stone walls of all shapes, sizes and types and throughout the West of Ireland and in particular in County Galway and no more so than here in Oughterard, Connemara, stone walls are in abundance. A distinctive construction craft which we should cherish and encourage more irrespective of whether the design or form is formal or informal.
It is a great tradition and as is evident from my photos of walls in and around Oughterard, a tradition that goes back a long time. Stone walls can make a substantive statement of character to any property, a great construction skill and tradition, demanding strong hands but keen eyes, the art and mark of stonemasonry is an important element of Irish craft and tradition, perhaps long lost in many urban areas, but fortunately remaining popular and indeed cherished and thriving in rural communities and towns like Oughterard, Connemara.
Of course besides attractive stone walls, there are many other interesting sights to be enjoyed in Oughterard. Now as we approach the end of October, the trout can be seen spawning in the local Owenriff river, itself a beautiful civic amenity throughout the year. There are lots of picnic areas and benches on which to sit and enjoy the views but also to be seen are the signs which so eloquently remind us to:
Connemara – constantly changing, endless beauty

For a spectacular and captivating drive through some of the most iconic, beautiful and natural landscapes to be seen anywhere in Ireland, I would recommend the Connemara Loop. Setting out from Oughterard, the gateway to Connemara and heading westwards along the N59 continue via Tully Cross and onwards to Renvyle, returning back along the N59 to Oughterard via Letterfrack. Although a relatively a journey (much less than 100km), there are so many unmissable views, that one should allow plenty of time to enjoy. I would also recommend stopping for lunch at Renvyle House. The dressed Crab and Smoked Salmon open sandwiches of Irish Soda Bread were simply delicious.







Along this route you will pass through incredible natural scenery including spectacular valleys, hills, mountains, lake and shorelines, bogland etc. The views and colours are endless in beauty and constantly changing, not just between seasons but almost daily. Apart from the natural beauty, the environment resonates with fabulous sounds to provide a freshness which is just incredibly relaxing for mind and body. At this time of year, the prevailing colours of the landscape reflect distinctive autumnal hues.
But no matter when you actually travel, I can honestly say that the Connemara Loop makes for a great visual treat and complete with soulful delights.











The beauty of Oughterard with or without you

Just a short distance from Oughterard and heading in direction of Rossaveal one encounters a landscape which can be simply described as an extended but intrinsically Nature made rockery. At first glance the area apart from rambling sheep appears desolate and deserted. There is little evidence of human habitation, there are hardly any road signs or names and in fact much of the roads bear a greater resemblance to dirt tracks or country lanes. There’s hardly a straight line to be seen anywhere, as far as the eye can see, rocks protrude on a gentle undulating landscape which at first sight appears harsh and incapable of sustaining any form of life human and/or wild life.

So much rock is visible one could probably take a lifetime or more to count them all and still not be finished. Today the weather is far from kind and a deep dullness overhangs much of the area, dense grey clouds appear to complement the light grey tones of the rock infested fields. The random haphazard distribution of rock bears much resemblance to an almighty event of scattering of stone at some point. Probably more to do with the aftermath of some glaciated drifts, the precious soil well in the sense of been thin and probably poorly because there is little evidence of if being capable of sustaining any crops? Instead one can see many examples of marshy conditions and here and there discreet examples of some person’s efforts to extract turf for burning.

On a grey day and a seemless endless lines of stone stretching as far as one can see left and right and also upwards. There are few trees to be seen, in fact much of the local flora would be best described as scrub and growing less than 900mm high. Today the scene appears very familiar and resembling an image one might see in an artist’s painting. Colour has been bleached and reduced to perhaps two or three tones. The greyness of the overcast sky seems to re-inforce the flat tones of grey and brown today. I would be sure that on a sunny day, the view is somewhat different and other hues are more visible. Ther is also a mist visible with the result that the view reflects a delineated image and a popular perspective sometimes to be seen hanging on an art gallery wall.

Looking around there is no significant evidence of any cultivation, instead one is confronted by the solemnity of the grey and brown tones. There is little evidence of any current habitation unless of course you happen to take (very easily done) the wrong turn on a meandering road which may lead you to a private residence set deep in a natural hollow but hidden from view by the casual visitor.
Here and there one comes across an old ruin of a small cottage. Generally roofless, the walls are testament to the great skill and craft of local stone masons? These empty ruins are witness that at some point someone lived here but not anymore.

With the absence of colour the prevailing greyness takes a leading role in demanding your attention, much like a sepia photograph might do, it can time date but also provide an almost tangible link to the past.
Looking at these remains of some of the old deserted dwellings, one wonders who lived here? An individual, a Couple or an extended family? The casual visitor can see no evidence of any link with today’s world, instead the links might be simple home grown access routes which have become link roads to larger journeys deeper within Connemara.
There is no doubt that the view is impressive and on a warm cloudless summer’s day, the view can only but be impressive. Like the artist who paints with minimalist flair the hen which escapes from a built another pen.
Essentially the random twisted direction of the roads, the deep hollows and the prevailing lack of any substantial and visible signs of infrastructure makes for a more ‘untouched’ natural outward appearance. The thinly veiled soil supports rough vegetation enough it would seem to suustain sheep grazing which appear in great numbers here and there. The empty ruined dwellings serve as reminders that people once lived in these parts but wher are they? One wonders what has happened to the individual(s)? Are these the ghostly remains of dwellings lost out to emigration? Does the ghost of yesterday’s Past still linger here?
Despite the lack of bold colour and distinctive foliage of more cultured plant species, the wild desperate colours of the low growing grasses and weeds appeals along with that of the boggy and craggy surfaces. Along these roads with no names, looking for a sign in these parts is more likely to be found somewhere in the star studded night sky?
Despite the sadness of deserted ruins one can sense a potential glowing experience of peace and harmony to be found in these parts. Nature is the star performer here and the beauty of this area to the west of Oughterard remains here, with or without you.

























