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For Peat’s sake, let’s put an end to this
This topic is one which is close to my landscaping heart and I have mentioned it previously. I am of course referring to the continued widespread use of Peat as a soil improver/conditioner. Ireland is one of a few European producers continuing to extract peat from its native Bogland areas. Almost a million tonnes are extracted annually and much of it is exported. This may be endorsed and applauded by some as commercial success, but at what cost to our native bogland habitats? Why on one hand does the Irish Government invest considerable resources to make the Irish public more aware of important environmental matters, like recycling, waste management, carbon footprint etc etc when they own and operate one of Europe’s leading peat mining companies much of which finds its way into export markets? The mining of peat for gardening purposes is irresponsible, unsustainable and should be stopped.
The case for banning peat from soil conditioning products is very clear. On a macro level, all gardening enthusiasts should be more selective when deciding which products to purchase. Products containing any peat should be avoided. When Peat is sourced from Boglands, the capacity of the Bogs to store carbon is greatly reduced and the more the Bogs are mined, the more they will dry out thus releasing carbon into the atmosphere. Another consequence of mining peat is the destruction of native wildlife habitats. Transporting peat products overseas presumably causes more impact on the environment and increases carbon emmissions? How green is that?
Gardeners wishing to use peat free compost products, should also check packaging labels very carefully to ensure the product is in fact peat-free. Apparently many multi-purpose compost products on sale can contain over 70% peat.
The benefits of using peat-free soil conditioning products cannot be ignored. First and foremost we should all be doing more to protect unique habitats and make more responsibile decisions that protect wildlife from unnecessary threats. Peat-free soil conditioners make excellent soil improvers and conditioners and any organic alternative to peat, which contains few if any nutrients will provide much better results in the garden.
Grow your own eggs

Great to see the resurgence in self sufficiency and interest in grow your own produce, not least in the re-appearance of hens in family gardens. Alas cockerels are banned from urban areas, but at least with hens you can enjoy the bounty of not just grow your own produce but also your very own free range eggs.
Although the origins of poultry can be traced back to the Bamboo Pheasants in Asia, there are literally hundreds of breeds from which to choose. A vast range of colour, shape and size but if you are keen on having a steady supply of eggs, do note, some breeds are more productive than others. Two popular choices would be Rhode Island Reds and Hybrids, these are great layers all year round (but like all breeds lay fewer eggs during Winter).
Hens require little attention, access to food and fresh water and secure quarters at nightime to protect against fox attacks. Hens being excellent foragers are a wonderful addition to any garden, and hugely popular with children. Another fascinating aspect is to observe the pecking order across groups of mixed breeds ranging from the shy types through to the assertive bullys. Fascinating especially at feeding times.
How to start growing your own Vegetables
The popularity of the Grow Your Own (GYO) movement although well established but still continues to grow each and everyday. I suppose I should have posted something sooner about growing your own produce, but here is an article which I wrote about two years ago which has proven to have been a popular (based on the number of syndicated copies published around the world) introduction to the whole area of growing your own. The content is still very relevant today, but the wisdom and benefits of growing your own vegetables which I learned from watching my grandparents and parents do over 40 years ago are still true. There is no more satisfying produce, with a more complete and fresher taste than the taste of your freshly picked crop. It is not just about better tasting fresh produce, it is a lot to do with finding a role within the cycle the cycle of creation, self sufficency but ultimately a creative and productive fulfillment.
Grow It Yourself – where to start?
It does seem amazing how quickly DIY gardening appears to have been overtaken by GIY (grow it yourself) gardening! Not so long ago, growing your own vegetables, was seen by many to be a popular past time for a few old gardeners lucky to have a large site or allotment. These days with large sites hard to come by and allotments much in demand, old gardeners or gardening junkies are no longer the sole exponents of GIY, no, many new entrants are young professionals, nature enthusiasts, people who are genuinely interested in getting closer to nature or reducing their dependency on mass market produce. Others wish to experiment and growing their own vegetables, almost like micro farmers or even environmentalists, taking positive steps to reduce carbon footprint or better still growing for organic consumption and self satisfaction. Not surprising therefore to see reports about the sale of vegetable seed overtaking the sale of flower seed. So if you are a potential GIYer and do intend starting a programme or project of growing your own vegetables, some tips might helpful during the early planning or implementation stage So whether your stimulation is reduce air miles or taste organic food, there are some important points to consider when planning to start a vegetable garden.
Does size matter? No – not really, whether you have a pot, an old kitchen sink, a window sill or a sprawling site, growing your own vegetables is not only easy and exciting, it is also very rewarding.
Location – unless of course you enjoy longer walks through your garden, for practical reasons, the vegetable plot or kitchen garden should ideally be positioned nearer the house.
More importantly best to choose a position which permits the vegetable plot to enjoy a sunny aspect for much of the day. Although some vegetable produce will tolerate some shade (for example lettuce, runner beans etc), most won’t, so pick the site very carefully, pick a sunny and a sheltered position, avoid exposed windy sites. Other site aspects worth considering include picking a site where the prevailing ground conditions are level and free draining. Finally do bear in mind that good soil conditions will also be required, whether you prepare the ground by digging or mix in new soil or soil conditioners, most vegetables will require a growing depth of at least 300mm.
What to grow? Some might have favourites, some might stick with old reliable:
- Potatoes are good, and probably one of the easiest to grow, they are also great at breaking down heavy soils. But do remember to give them plenty of water.
- Leeks – easy to grow from seed and young leek tastes wonderful
- Broad beans – very tasty when young but are very easy to grow
- Sweetcorn – harvest when tassels are brown and boil in salted water
- Radishes – many different varieties to choose from, but an ideal and fast growing crop from which to teach the children GIY
- Runner Beans – quick growing, plentiful and pick and with lots of pick’n’grow fun
Deciding on the Layout – is important especially where space might be limited. For example you can grow some varieties at ground level whilst others such as French and Runner Beans can be trained to grow very effectively up trellising or bamboo canes. In larger sites, plan a series of long narrow beds which are easily accessible from both sides, but do remember to leave plenty of space between the growing beds, for example you should be able to move along pathways between beds with a wheelbarrow or more importantly if you like to get down on your hand and knees and get dirty, you’ll need at least 900mm – 1200mm spacing between the beds. Growing beds can be ground level on larger sites or raised on smaller sites or where soil conditions are poor. Raised beds can be developed using soil from other sites and mixing with compost, manures, soil conditioners etc. Also because they are raised you can ensure that drainage is good. As stated earlier, most vegetables prefer to grow in sunny areas, therefore it make sense to orientate beds on a north south axis, this ensures that all vegetable get sun each day. Be generous on spacing between beds, and consider a surface material so that all weather access is possible.
Ground Preparation – the better the soil, the better the performance, it is not impossible to provide good growing conditions. Vegetables require nutrients, water and oxygen. Soil plays a vital role in providing nutrients to plants. So it is important to prepare ground by digging to improve plants take up of nutrients. Alternatively if ground conditions are poor, you can use raised beds to provide better growing conditions for plants. In contrast to the ‘dig system’ the concept of using Raised Beds is sometimes referred to as the ‘No dig system’. Raised beds can be constructed from a variety of boards/timbers, recycled pallet boards, railway sleepers, pressure treated new sleepers, builder’s scaffolding boards all being popular choices.
Using crop rotation wisely – rotating the planting and growing of vegetables yields many benefits in terms of efficiency, bounty and disease/pest control. For example, Broccoli grows well in soils containing good levels of nitrogen, on the other hand, beans put nitrogen into the soil. Potatoes with the large canopy of foliage are very effective at suppressing weeds, whereas onions grow particularly very well in weed free soils. So from a crop rotational perspective, one would plant beans before of broccoli and potatoes before of onions.
Starting a rotation cycle – you should plan for at least three years, meaning the same vegetable will grow in the same spot every third year. However if you wish to also grow potatoes, better to use a four year rotation. The RHS has a very simple way to remember where each vegetable comes within the cycle: British Rail Late, where:
B = brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, kale, turnips etc) was
R = roots (beetroot, parsnips, carrots)
L = legumes (peas, Broad bean, French bean, Runner bean, onions, garlic, chives)
How it works in practice is in area 1, you plant brassicas first year, roots in second year and legumes in third year. In area 2, you plant roots first year, legumes second year and brassicas third year. In area 3, you plant legumes first followed by brassicas and roots.
Maintenance – providing you have done good ground preparation, maintenance of the area shouldn’t be much more than adding a good fertiliser (Fish Bone & Blood) before planting or manure in Autumn. Watering is important especially during the early vulnerable stage, again bets done early in morning or late in evening and always check to make sure water is getting down to plant roots. Weed regularly to avoid unwanted competition for nutrients and water.
If at first you don’t succeed – try again. Sometimes it is only as result of trial and error that you will discover what grows best for your area and conditions. Don’t be afraid to ask other local gardeners for tips or advice with particular problems, most of all, have fun in growing your own vegetables and join the ever burgeoning legion of GIY enthusiasts..
GREEN ZONE: Growing It Yourself – where to start?
Grow It Yourself – where to start?
It does seem amazing how quickly DIY gardening appears to have been overtaken by GIY (grow it yourself) gardening! Not so long ago, growing your own vegetables, was seen by many to be a popular past time for a few old gardeners lucky to have a large site or allotment. These days with large sites hard to come by and allotments much in demand, old gardeners or gardening junkies are no longer the sole exponents of GIY, no, many new entrants are young professionals, nature enthusiasts, people who are genuinely interested in getting closer to nature or reducing their dependency on mass market produce. Others wish to experiment and growing their own vegetables, almost like micro farmers or even environmentalists, taking positive steps to reduce carbon footprint or better still growing for organic consumption and self satisfaction. Not surprising therefore to see reports about the sale of vegetable seed overtaking the sale of flower seed. So if you are a potential GIYer and do intend starting a programme or project of growing your own vegetables, some tips might helpful during the early planning or implementation stage So whether your stimulation is reduce air miles or taste organic food, there are some important points to consider when planning to start a vegetable garden.
Does size matter? No – not really, whether you have a pot, an old kitchen sink, a window sill or a sprawling site, growing your own vegetables is not only easy and exciting, it is also very rewarding.
Location – unless of course you enjoy longer walks through your garden, for practical reasons, the vegetable plot or kitchen garden should ideally be positioned nearer the house. More importantly best to choose a position which permits the vegetable plot to enjoy a sunny aspect for much of the day. Although some vegetable produce will tolerate some shade (for example lettuce, runner beans etc), most won’t, so pick the site very carefully, pick a sunny and a sheltered position, avoid exposed windy sites. Other site aspects worth considering include picking a site where the prevailing ground conditions are level and free draining. Finally do bear in mind that good soil conditions will also be required, whether you prepare the ground by digging or mix in new soil or soil conditioners, most vegetables will require a growing depth of at least 300mm.
What to grow? Some might have favourites, some might stick with old reliable:
- Potatoes are good, and probably one of the easiest to grow, they are also great at breaking down heavy soils. But do remember to give them plenty of water.
- Leeks – easy to grow from seed and young leek tastes wonderful
- Broad beans – very tasty when young but are very easy to grow
- Sweetcorn – harvest when tassels are brown and boil in salted water
- Radishes – many different varieties to choose from, but an ideal and fast growing crop from which to teach the children GIY
- Runner Beans – quick growing, plentiful and pick and with lots of pick’n’grow fun
Deciding on the Layout – is important especially where space might be limited. For example you can grow some varieties at ground level whilst others such as French and Runner Beans can be trained to grow very effectively up trellising or bamboo canes. In larger sites, plan a series of long narrow beds which are easily accessible from both sides, but do remember to leave plenty of space between the growing beds, for example you should be able to move along pathways between beds with a wheelbarrow or more importantly if you like to get down on your hand and knees and get dirty, you’ll need at least 900mm – 1200mm spacing between the beds. Growing beds can be ground level on larger sites or raised on smaller sites or where soil conditions are poor. Raised beds can be developed using soil from other sites and mixing with compost, manures, soil conditioners etc. Also because they are raised you can ensure that drainage is good. As stated earlier, most vegetables prefer to grow in sunny areas, therefore it make sense to orientate beds on a north south axis, this ensures that all vegetable get sun each day. Be generous on spacing between beds, and consider a surface material so that all weather access is possible.
Grow it, kill it and enjoy it!
The time has come for me to do the nasty deed! After several months of careful nurturing with plenty of fresh and healthy feeding, the turkey which surprisingly provided many enjoyable moments has gained considerable weight.
After much searching, it was decided that the preferred method of killing would be to simply to behead the bird. After binding the feet, a black sock was placed over the head, which seemed to pacify the bird. The bird was placed on the ground and holding the wings firmly, it’s neck resting on a wide block of wood, and with a short swing of a hand axe, it was all over in seconds. Advised to pluck whilst the body was still warm, it was not too difficult to complete but there was a surprising amount of feathers.
Soon we will enjoy the better tasting qualities of a home grown free range Turkey.
Growing your own – raise your levels
What better way to start your own vegetable garden than raising the ground levels and highlighting with appealing finish such as Sandstone walling complete with perimeter planting of Box hedging and Holly standard specimens.
Vegetable gardens need not look like mere working areas, but with a little creative thinking and skillful construction can make a distinctive addition to any garden.
So if you are planning on growing your own fruit and vegetables, pay some attention to the structural form, and by raising the ground levels, you’re not only creating ideal growing environment with enhanced soil and drainage conditions, but also the prospects of another appealing focal point.
A practical layout for growing your own
Well as the wet weather continued unabated, limiting our progress on landscaping works, we did however manage to make some progress with the layout to the new Vegetable garden.
A simple but structured area layout was agreed featuring ornamental planting on the front perimeter with Box hedging (Buxus sempervirens) and two very mature but stunning Holly standards (or ‘lollipops’) at entrance contrasting nicely with the perimeter planting at the sides of Christmas box and Himalayan Birch trees.
The planted areas have been raised and here we have used natural untreated Larch boards to create the raised planting structures. Larch is an extraordinary tough and long lasting timber, well capable of withstanding all that Irish weather and much more besides. The pathways will be top dressed with limestone pebble over a hardcore base which has been underlaid with a horticultural (weed barrier) liner. All in all, a simple but robust layout with many labour saving features incorporated from the outset. Functionality aside, the overall planting and structural finish including of course the Sandstone walling is an unusual but very attractive finish to what is a very appealling ‘Grow your own’ vegetable garden within this promising new garden project.
Christmas Turkey.. two tempting grow your own
They say free range Turkey tastes fantastic, well if that’s true and I’ve no reason to doubt it, what could be a better start to enjoying free range turkey for christmas than to grow your own? Recently I collected two 13 week old Bronze Turkeys from Stephen in Co Louth which will be cared for and fattened in time for the Christmas table.
Initial impressions I would say they are not a particularly attractive looking creature, for me they bear a close resemblance to Vultures, the back feathers are however very striking with a distinctive irridescent sheen ie part black part metallic but a very deep dark bronze. I selected two males (cocks) on the advice that they make for bigger birds, so more food. Males can be easily identified by the bright red below the beak. Already I have noticed that they do not appear to be as inquisitive as hens, are fussy eaters preferring meal only, will not eat any fruit/vegetable or even bread scraps, so a little disappointed on the recycling of food waste. Also unlike hens they do not appear to forage and but do seem to much quieter.
Although early days, I wonder if people might become attached to the creatures so much so that there may be a reluctance to kill the creatures? Reasonable to expect that whereas some may not wish to kill but would be happy to enjoy the bounty? Perhaps if owners perceive creatures like turkeys as pets then of course it might be very difficult? Will it be a case of family pets do not deserve to die or the family pets may sit at the table and but not on the table? 
All jokes aside I doubt it if either bird will survive beyond Christmas, and at least by that stage, they will have have hopefully enjoyed a pleasant and albeit brief time (20 weeks) on earth in a cared for environment.
The Good Life – banking on ‘Growing Your Own’
Coming on the heels of more developed and familiar campaigns advising us, the public, to focus more on our lifestyles and become more aware if not responsible for what we eat, how we use energy to heat, and run our homes, reduce and stop our ‘landfill’ by recycling our waste, be more conscious of what we buy and how we travel, it’s hardly surprising that ‘Grow Your Own’ (GYO) fruit and vegetables is the current flavour of the month campaign to get the public more aware of our environment and contribute directly to collective efforts to reduce our carbon emissions. Not so long ago GYO was considered by some sceptics to be nothing more than a passing craze, but three or four years later, GYO has been embraced by many people determined to discover the good life and now growing a whole range of fruit and vegetables in a myriad of ways. Methods include growing seed in tiny hanging baskets and pots, raised beds, window boxes, on the balcony, under a cold frame and in the glasshouse.
The huge and accelerated popularity and interest in GYO is nothing short of phenomenal with many enthusiasts claiming little or no previous interest in the garden. The demand for GYO products has seen significant shift in consumer purchasing patterns and behaviours with many Garden centre representatives struggling to meet increased demands for GYO products. Many now claim to be selling twice as much GYO fruit and vegetable seed as flower seed.
When it comes to popular home-grown crops, tomatoes is still ahead of growing herbs followed by carrots, peas/beans and potatoes with interest growing in new exotics vegetables such as rocket and aubergines. Recent research indicates that consumers who grow their own fruit and vegetables can reduce their average weekly grocery shopping bill by over € 5.00 or over € 250.00 in a full year, proving that Grow Your Own is not only good for flavour but also good for the pocket! Surely something to bank on for a Good Life?
Enjoying the ‘cut and come’ of Herbs
The great thing about Herbs is that they can be grown practically anywhere in the garden, but best in the sun. If grown in free draining soil, they will reward you with a delightful display of aromatic and colourful foliage. Little wonder that more and more of us want to start discovering the culinary delights of freshly cut Herbs direct from our own garden.
Whatever your interest, growing herbs is easy, and only a little planning is all that is required in order to maintain this perennial garden delight. Every garden deserves an herb garden, even if this means a few pots or tubs, or simply a window box crammed with parsley, thyme and chives.
Although some herbs like Rosemary or Fennell can grow happily for years, most need to be renewed every 2-3 years, whilst others like Sage or Dill can be grown from seed or cuttings each year.
But how many herbs do I require to start an herb garden? Some herbs like fennel grow quite big 1500mm tall whereas parsley or thyme will not grow taller than 150mm – 200mm. Best to go for a head start, so buy some young herb plants rather than seeds, at least that way you won’t end up with twenty of the one variety! Pick a sunny site and start planting! For the smaller varieties consider planting more than one, but this will depend on personal choice.
So what do I use to stock my new Herb garden? Well there’s a huge range, but select varieties you will use and enjoy. Here’s a list of the more popular varieties:
• Parsley (available in various varieties flat leaf and curly leaf) use both types in a range of meat and vegetable dishes. A small plant.
• Thyme, fabulous aroma and used to flavour almost any dish. A small plant.
• Chives, a very small but simple to grow herb. A real easy ‘cut and come’ plant, simply use fresh chives to add a mild onion flavour to food and salads.
• Mint – spearmint or Bowles mint (this plant can be invasive, to control root spread/growth, plant in a plastic tub in the ground).
• French Tarragon is a delicate upright plant, but excellent for flavouring fish, salads etc.
• Green Sage, great with stuffings and Pasta.
• Fennell a very hardy large self seeding plant. Used to flavour a wide range including fish, eggs, cheese, vegetables etc. The leaves and bulb have a lovely aniseed flavour which is popular with many.
• Lemon Balm used in iced drinks and hot teas. Like mint, can spread rapidly so plant in a container in the ground.
• Golden Marjoram can be used in meat stuffings.
• Oregano, add to all Italian style sauces.
• Dill, very popular herb with the leaves and seeds used to flavour pickles, cucumber and fish dishes. A tall plant with feather like foliage.
• Chervil, a little similar to Parsley in appearance with a delicate spicy fragrance and used in soups, sauces and salads.
• Basil or Sweet Basil, is a pleasant smelling annual plant with a spicy taste. Great with all tomatoe dishes.
• Rosemary fantastic to flavour Lamb, poultry, roasted or barbequed.
• Bay with its aromatic leaves is a very large plant and popular to add flavour to a number of dishes including fish, soups and especially French casseroles. Don’t forget to discard the leaves before serving food!
Sometimes the Herb garden can look a little jaded over the winter months. To avoid this why not add a little more structure by planting the perimeter with Buxus Sempervirens, which can be clipped tightly to provide an all year round smart green planted perimeter. Use Bay Leaf Standards or Mopheads to add a formal look and visual interest at head height. Plant you favourite herbs inside the perimeter. Remember herbs are best grown in a sunny location and if used in Kitchen, plant near House. If space is limited, you can also plant herbs in amongst the shrubs or in containers. Plant in groups of 3-5 for added impact.


















