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Sandstone Patios in challenging spaces

A recent project of ours I believe provides some useful illustration about the importance of design and layout in defining Patio areas. Perhaps not so evident from the photographs is that this particular garden which was was relatively compact but on two levels and made the more challenging by the chosen design. Some logistical challenges had also to be carefully considered, as there was no side or rear access to the garden areas, this project required that all materials be carried through the house.

Some might wonder why we did not select an easier approach by choosing a more simpler perhaps linear layout. No, we always endeavour to exceed client expectations and ion this instance it was obvious from an early stage of the design process a design with a split level solution with a distinctive finish to the retaining elements was preferred by the clients. In this instance Pressure treated Pine sleepers were used for the Raised Bed at the upper level and at the lower level a sandstone capping to a painted rendered wall was agreed upon.


Although it would have been much easier to construct a linear wall, the geometry was largely influenced by the fact that the client wanted to inset a circular arrangement within the lower sandstone patio. Thus it was obvious to me anyway, that the wall and indeed the Raised Bed should be consistent and therefore semi-circular layouts were selected. This was also the chosen finish for the decorative trims around patio perimeters which provided opportunity for sandstone chippings to contrast with the relative flatness of the sandstone paving. On the upper level, the sandstone paving also featured a circular-out to provide much needed breathing space at ground level for the mature tree.

Although a small garden space, all the common but key details and elements of everyday patio design and construction can be seen here, including ACCO Storm channels at Patio doors, Recess Frames to provide easy but discreet access to the AJ (access to foul water system), Sandstone risers for steps. How often do we see the appearance of new paving ruined by conspicuous AJ/Manhole covers?

The colour of the painted rendered wall at the lower level is Nevada, an dalthough we did discuss colour selection for some time. We did at completion joke about how we took a gamble with the Nevada but it paid off!
I always believe that designing in small spaces can be difficult, with little room for error and in this particular project, construction was also more challenging than usual and this was very evident during extensive excavations taking place during recent wet spells. All in all, from start to finish, the project took approx 10 working days to complete. They were 10 hard days, but the results clearly justify the significant effort involved. Great sandstone cutting skill is much in evidence throughout this garden.

Planning a new garden
We frequently hear ‘size matters’ but in gardening, very often small is very beautiful and therefore with careful planning and clever design, it is possible to transform even the smallest space or plot into an attractive feature rich garden oasis. Even if your plans are to build a garden on a small budget, it is possible to develop an attractive planting scheme without spending a fortune.

Before the process of designing a garden begins, it is necessary to first plan the new garden space. Other factors which will also require consideration include budget – how much are you willing to spend on features, plant varieties, stage of maturity etc, and how much time you are willing to invest in maintaining your new garden. Gardening might be broadly considered a leisure activity, but for many it involves plenty of activity and little leisure! As time becomes an increasing precious resource, it is very important that we also consider time and how much time will be available to manage and maintain the garden as it develops and matures.
When it comes to planning a garden, there are several factors which might be considered but three in particular:
•Aspect – note the direction and times as the sun travels across the site. Remember that patios, ponds, flower beds, vegetable plots, fruit trees etc require good light. Sheds, compost heaps and shade loving plants can be positioned in areas where light levels are low. Trees are excellent for screening out unwelcome views but they do cast shadows especially long shadows during winter.
•Topography – sloping or uneven sites offer particular design scope not found in level sites. Otherwise when planning avoid placing fruit trees or other frost sensitive plants in hollows where temperatures are more likely to be lower than other parts of the site. Site areas which might be subject to persistent cross winds might require windbreaks until new shrubs and trees become established.
•Soil – as general garden wisdom goes, one plants with the soil, not against it. Important to test the pH of your garden soil to determine whether it is alkaline or acidic. Plants which are lime hating should not be planted in alkaline soils or plants that are lime tolerant should not be planted in acidic soils. Similarly plants which prefer moist conditions are not suitable for growing in free draining sandy soils. A quick survey of neighbouring gardens would be a useful indicator of which plants are thriving in local conditions and would be good indicators of prevailing soil conditions etc.
Ideally when planning a garden in large sites try to create compartments otherwise in all sites large and small go for distinctive views which will vary and change as one walks through the garden. Some people prefer an open view looking at the garden from the house, whereas an incomplete or slightly obscured view can create mystery, intrigue and interest to explore. There are some visual aspects which can be considered:
•The relationship of house and garden can be softened through use of perimeter beds, growing roses or climbing plants against the house or indeed well positioned hanging baskets, window boxes or pots.
•Trees are excellent focal points, for screening unwanted views, shelter etc but position trees that will not obscure interesting views, create cold shadows in important areas.
•Patios, paving and pathways, use materials that will blend with or contrast sympathetically with house and garden style. Natural stone is an excellent choice. Avoid dissecting lawn areas, instead position pathways on one side, and better still plan the route which takes the visitor on a journey through the planted areas. It may even be possible to conceal pathways in amongst the planting.
•Geometry, straight lines can look particularly well in contemporary or architectural formal garden but otherwise curves are usually more appealing. Avoid intricate short complex curves and instead plan long bold sweeps.
•Outbuildings including garden sheds, glasshouses, and potting sheds should where possible be screened. Plan positions carefully, glasshouses should be in sunny locations but there is no real need for the garden shed to stand in the sunniest place of the garden.
Every garden no matter how small the space is, has big potential to become a relaxing and stylish retreat.

Enjoying the ‘cut and come’ of Herbs
The great thing about Herbs is that they can be grown practically anywhere in the garden, but best in the sun. If grown in free draining soil, they will reward you with a delightful display of aromatic and colourful foliage. Little wonder that more and more of us want to start discovering the culinary delights of freshly cut Herbs direct from our own garden.
Whatever your interest, growing herbs is easy, and only a little planning is all that is required in order to maintain this perennial garden delight. Every garden deserves an herb garden, even if this means a few pots or tubs, or simply a window box crammed with parsley, thyme and chives.
Although some herbs like Rosemary or Fennell can grow happily for years, most need to be renewed every 2-3 years, whilst others like Sage or Dill can be grown from seed or cuttings each year.
But how many herbs do I require to start an herb garden? Some herbs like fennel grow quite big 1500mm tall whereas parsley or thyme will not grow taller than 150mm – 200mm. Best to go for a head start, so buy some young herb plants rather than seeds, at least that way you won’t end up with twenty of the one variety! Pick a sunny site and start planting! For the smaller varieties consider planting more than one, but this will depend on personal choice.
So what do I use to stock my new Herb garden? Well there’s a huge range, but select varieties you will use and enjoy. Here’s a list of the more popular varieties:
• Parsley (available in various varieties flat leaf and curly leaf) use both types in a range of meat and vegetable dishes. A small plant.
• Thyme, fabulous aroma and used to flavour almost any dish. A small plant.
• Chives, a very small but simple to grow herb. A real easy ‘cut and come’ plant, simply use fresh chives to add a mild onion flavour to food and salads.
• Mint – spearmint or Bowles mint (this plant can be invasive, to control root spread/growth, plant in a plastic tub in the ground).
• French Tarragon is a delicate upright plant, but excellent for flavouring fish, salads etc.
• Green Sage, great with stuffings and Pasta.
• Fennell a very hardy large self seeding plant. Used to flavour a wide range including fish, eggs, cheese, vegetables etc. The leaves and bulb have a lovely aniseed flavour which is popular with many.
• Lemon Balm used in iced drinks and hot teas. Like mint, can spread rapidly so plant in a container in the ground.
• Golden Marjoram can be used in meat stuffings.
• Oregano, add to all Italian style sauces.
• Dill, very popular herb with the leaves and seeds used to flavour pickles, cucumber and fish dishes. A tall plant with feather like foliage.
• Chervil, a little similar to Parsley in appearance with a delicate spicy fragrance and used in soups, sauces and salads.
• Basil or Sweet Basil, is a pleasant smelling annual plant with a spicy taste. Great with all tomatoe dishes.
• Rosemary fantastic to flavour Lamb, poultry, roasted or barbequed.
• Bay with its aromatic leaves is a very large plant and popular to add flavour to a number of dishes including fish, soups and especially French casseroles. Don’t forget to discard the leaves before serving food!
Sometimes the Herb garden can look a little jaded over the winter months. To avoid this why not add a little more structure by planting the perimeter with Buxus Sempervirens, which can be clipped tightly to provide an all year round smart green planted perimeter. Use Bay Leaf Standards or Mopheads to add a formal look and visual interest at head height. Plant you favourite herbs inside the perimeter. Remember herbs are best grown in a sunny location and if used in Kitchen, plant near House. If space is limited, you can also plant herbs in amongst the shrubs or in containers. Plant in groups of 3-5 for added impact.
Using Planters for Winter Colour
A very simple but effective way to achieve a colourful impact in your garden during the winter months is to spruce up the area with some carefully selected planters packed with attractive shrubs full with seasonal colours. Some simple rules apply and success is practically guaranteed. Here leading landscaper Owen Chubb offers readers some practical professional advice on what you need to do to bring colour to your Winter garden.
By the time December arrives, many believe the gardening year is at an end? Not so! Although many gardens are distinct by the lack of colour, most of the deciduous plant stock has shed leaf at this stage and the herbaceous perennials have gone to ground for the dormant season. But gardens need not look so gloomy and here are some simple tips to help put the colour back into the garden. Before you begin, some basic planning is required.
Plants – choose wisely, remember to select plants that look good or their best during the winter months. Choose plants with interesting foliage or better still select varieties which flower at this time of year, there are many to choose from including Skimmia, Coprosma, Hellebores, Mahonia, Cyclamens etc.
Size Matters – yes, select planters that provide adequate space for rootball to develop, avoid planting tall and large plants in shallow planters, or planting compact ground cover plants in large planters.
Form & Colour – applies not just to the plants, size and shape also applies to planters. There is such an array of planters from which to choose. Try clustering planters in groups, in Cottage gardens, a range of sizes can look particularly attractive, whereas in a more architectural formal garden, using one size can reinforce the desired effect.
Planting for impact
Here are some suggestions for interesting combinations:
• Cordyline (tenax) underplanted with the vibrant almost neon like yellow striped Acorus ogon
• For a more architectural look, try planting a specimen plant such as a Half Standard (ie Lollipop form) several varieties to choose from including Bay Laurel, Holly, Camelia etc and underplant with Buxus Sempervirens (common Box) or Euonymous Gaiety. Underplanting should be clipped to reflect the formal look.
• A classic seasonal look, try Skimmia japonica Rubella, with its rich green tapered leaves and masses of flowers/berries. Underplant with the green and yellow striped Carex Evergold.
• Pack extra punch in smaller containers but masses of vibrant colour, try the vibrant red tinged foliage of Hebe Heartbreaker as feature plant and mix with the striking black grass like leaf of Ophiopogon Nigrescens.
• In sheltered areas, Nandina Domestica with its varied foliage colours of green, yellow and red with its masses of red berries can look stunning when combined with the striking bright yellow foliage of Acorus ogon.
• The silver spiked leaves of Astelia Silver Spears provide some seasonal glitter when underplanted with the light green variagated foliage of the dwarf Skimmia Merlot complete with its red berries.
• A striking opulent colour effect can be achieved with a specimen of Phormium Yellow wave mixed with the rich vivid purple colour of Heuchera Palace Purple.
• One of my favourite combinations is to use a specimen half standard olive tree, underplant with Acorus ogon and cyclamens. And for a mesmerizing effect during hours of darkness to place an uplighter in the planter and white light streaking through the silver blue green hues of the olive tree produces an unforgettable Christmas effect.
Many other combinations are possible even with the inclusion of seasonal bulbs and seasonal flowers including cyclamens, hyacinths, winter pansies etc. With some simple planning, striking colour combinations can be achieved and all designed to give a much needed lift to the otherwise drab appearance of winter gardens. Select containers with interesting profiles and colour which will extend the contrast with preferred planting colour schemes.
Finally do not forget to water and apply some feed to the planters to avoid any drying out. It may not be sunny but it is surprising how gentle winds can dry out planters.
The Design challenges of a small garden
Unlike large areas, where there is good scope to exploit the area with plants, features, structural elements etc but in more confined spaces the design requirements and demands to achieve a practical layout with good visual aspects is much more difficult and challenging. A recent project was a good case in point. The site featured a new house build within an existing (corner site) garden and by the time the construction of the new house was completed, the outdoor space was restrictive. A small spatial area but with an unusual but dual purpose (a) a Patio area for the owner to sit and enjoy and (b) a place to park the owner’s car. To add to the design challenge, the space was not level and also somewhat overlooked. The ‘Before’ photos show the site and end of construction and also a new concrete slab which the Builder had poured for a car parking space. It proved very strong and difficult to remove but it had to go.

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Early on in the design process it was agreed to define the space in terms of two functions and on a split level. Planting it was agreed would be restricted to mainly rear at perimeter and some trapped beds within the ‘patio’ area. To balance privacy with openness, we specified mainly specimen planting, for example Photinia (Red Robin) standards in Patio and Olive Trees for eventual easy to maintain rear screening. Buxus Sempervirens (Box hedging) was cleverly utilised to disguise and soften the otherwise ‘I’ roll track for the garage/side gate.
Having considered a number of different natural paving types, including sandstone and granite, the client was keen to utilise granite (bush hammered grey finish), as it was considered the stone best suited to provide a contemporary look as well as being ideal surface for car parking. The finishes were very defined and broadly simple clean lines used throughout. There were however some contrasting granite forms used (granite setts and granite kerbing) to provide added visual contrast.
One might also notice the garden statue which had been within the original family garden and the owner was keen to retain for lots of warm childhood memories etc. We did manage to re-position the ‘garden lady’ discreetly behind one of the Olive tree.
Crisp clean lines with good definition are hallmarks of this particular project, and one which despite its relative small size, demonstrates the importance of paying attention to details and achieve a simple but harmonious end result. The planting scheme involved more emphasis on mature specimens, with the simple geometric forms of Bay Laurel and Photinia Standards contrasting nicely with Chamerops and Olive Trees. To retain interest over the winter months, the Mahonia with its scented yellow flowers will give lift to the lower growing Hebe Heartbreakers, again the simple compact forms of this variety will produce spectacular colour variations. As temperatures change from winter frost to summer sunshine, the hebe heartbreaker will dramatically change colour from glowing pink to firey red to augment the plant’s more regular variagated look.

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Soothing Sound – Ideas for Water Features
The soothing sound of cascading water can create a relaxing and welcome feature in any garden. Landscape Designer Owen Chubb turns on some ideas.
HOUSE architecture l design l garden l advice Autumn/Winter Issue 2006/2007 (pdf)