Owen Chubb Garden Landscapers Limited is an award winning garden landscaping company in Dublin, Ireland. This is our blog where we share our ideas, day-to-day experiences and inspiration. More about us...

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Time to get the garden into shape

Posted on March 18th, 2009

Well I must admit, it was with some relief that I was able to read some good and alternative news for a change! According to recent UK survey, there are now over 20 million domestic lawns in the UK which is an enormous grass area equivalent to over 170,000 football pitches. The survey indicated that the number of people replacing lawn areas for car parking spaces has dropped back, down to 15% from a previous level (2004) 26%. This surprised me, as there would appear to be much annecdotal evidence of a growing trend (need) for more car parking. An industry spokesperson for the UK lawnmower engine producers said ‘ this was good news and we must continue to protect our lawns’, well he would, wouldn’t he? Certainly in my experience, when it comes to a crunch, people are more likely to reduce the lawn in part if not remove it entirely in order to protect the car, and get it off the road!

Elsewhere I read that the RHS will unveil a new variety of Daffodil which they have named after the Welsh popstar, Duffy. The new variety described as a small but robust bloom has been named ‘Duffydil’ and will be formally unveiled in April.

As St Patrick’s Day traditionally signals the kick-off for the new gardening season, here are a few practical tips to quickly get your garden into shape and looking fit and healthy.

Patios/Pathways – now is the ideal time to remove all weeds, either by hand or killed off by using a path weedkiller. To restore the ‘like-new’ look and remove any greening and residual grime simply power wash all hard surfaces.

Garden Ponds- ensure pump is working and remove all traces of fallen leaf and trim any overhanging nearby planting. Areas around Reservoir Water features should also be cleared of any fallen leaf and if the feature water has not been operated over the winter months, chances are there will be an unusual foul smell (stagnant water) when the pump is switched on, however this is quickly remedied once the pump runs a few hours and oxygen levels in the water have been restored.

Gravel areas – remove all debris and fallen leaf (a garden blower is an excellent labour saving piece of equipment), rake gravel to produce a neat appearance and treat area if there any visible signs of weeds.

Plant Beds & Borders – remove any dead or diseased plants, litter, weed and leaf clutter. Hoe area to freshen up the appearance of the soil around plants or top dress with compost or bark mulch. Now is also a good time to make changes to layout, so transplant any shrubs or young trees to new locations within the garden. Trim or prune any wayward or low hanging branches causing obstruction.

Lawn care – an old gardener’s secret to a beautiful lawn but subject to the weather, is to start mowing in March and apply a general Spring lawn feed. Lawns which are weak or patchy and showing poor colour yellow or pale green patches are signs that the lawn requires nitrogen which will quickly restore the lush green look. Lawns with moss will require special treatment of lawn sand or sulphate of ammonia. Ensure all edges are trimmed especially along borders and pathways.

Patios/Pathways – now is the ideal time to remove all weeds, either by hand or killed off by using a path weedkiller. To restore the ‘like-new’ look and remove any greening and residual grime simply power wash all hard surfaces.

Garden Ponds- ensure pump is working and remove all traces of fallen leaf and trim any overhanging nearby planting. Areas around Reservoir Water features should also be cleared of any fallen leaf and if the feature water has not been operated over the winter months, chances are there will be an unusual foul smell (stagnant water) when the pump is switched on, however this is quickly remedied once the pump runs a few hours and oxygen levels in the water have been restored.

Gravel areas – remove all debris and fallen leaf (a garden blower is an excellent labour saving piece of equipment), rake gravel to produce a neat appearance and treat area if there any visible signs of weeds.

Plant Beds & Borders – remove any dead or diseased plants, litter, weed and leaf clutter. Hoe area to freshen up the appearance of the soil around plants or top dress with compost or bark mulch. Now is also a good time to make changes to layout, so transplant any shrubs or young trees to new locations within the garden. Trim or prune any wayward or low hanging branches causing obstruction.

Lawn care – an old gardener’s secret to a beautiful lawn but subject to the weather, is to start mowing in March and apply a general Spring lawn feed. Lawns which are weak or patchy and showing poor colour yellow or pale green patches are signs that the lawn requires nitrogen which will quickly restore the lush green look. Lawns with moss will require special treatment of lawn sand or sulphate of ammonia. Ensure all edges are trimmed especially along borders and pathways.

Finally, another news item which recently caught my attention, what  appears to be the first hairdressing concession at a garden centre in Dorset! Brings a whole new meaning to ‘outdoor living’?

Mid March and it’s time for getting outdoors!

Posted on March 14th, 2009

Mid March usually heralds the start of the new gardening season, but for many where to start can seem a daunting task. Each day brings new surprises as buds begin to burst in trees and shrubs, signalling the end of Winter slumber and the start of the new gardening season. Here are practical tips to quickly get your garden into shape and looking fit and healthy.

Patios/Pathways – now is the ideal time to remove all weeds, either by hand or killed off by using a path weedkiller. To restore the ‘like-new’ look and remove any greening and residual grime simply power wash all hard surfaces.

Garden Ponds- ensure pump is working and remove all traces of fallen leaf and trim any overhanging nearby planting. Areas around Reservoir Water features should also be cleared of any fallen leaf and if the feature water has not been operated over the winter months, chances are there will be an unusual foul smell (stagnant water) when the pump is switched on, however this is quickly remedied once the pump runs a few hours and oxygen levels in the water have been restored.

Gravel areas – remove all debris and fallen leaf (a garden blower is an excellent labour saving piece of equipment), rake gravel to produce a neat appearance and treat area if there any visible signs of weeds.

Plant Beds & Borders – remove any dead or diseased plants, litter, weed and leaf clutter. Hoe area to freshen up the appearance of the soil around plants or top dress with compost or bark mulch. Now is also a good time to make changes to layout, so transplant any shrubs or young trees to new locations within the garden. Trim or prune any wayward or low hanging branches causing obstruction.

Lawn care – an old gardener’s secret to a beautiful lawn but subject to the weather, is to start mowing in March and apply a general Spring lawn feed. Lawns which are weak or patchy and showing poor colour yellow or pale green patches are signs that the lawn requires nitrogen which will quickly restore the lush green look. Lawns with moss will require special treatment of lawn sand or sulphate of ammonia. Ensure all edges are trimmed especially along borders and pathways.

Gardening with Planters

Posted on February 21st, 2009

Gardening with planters is a very enjoyable, easy and rewarding way to achieve great results and real impact in the garden. How to get the best results? Some simple rules apply and a little planning is all that is required to achieve stunning results.

Gardening with planters and containers is very popular and a particularly favourite way to grow seasonal bedding plants, but planters are also a very useful and practical means for growing shrubs, trees, fruit, herbs and even vegetables.

Frequently gardening with planters is all about adding a splash of colour to give an extra wow affect, other times planters can be used very effectively to brighten a dull corner, obscure an unwanted view, frame an entrance and in the case of small areas to provide planting opportunities where traditional methods of planting in prepared ground is not possible (hard surface areas).

Whether we wish to decorate indoors or outdoors, at home or at the office, at the entrance or on the patio, on the rooftop or on the balcony and even tricky areas like steps, the scope for gardening with planters is practically endless. Choose planters wisely, probably most will be used in outdoor situations, we must remember to choose containers that are frost proof, which allows surplus water and rain to drain away and not drown plants. Some planters have an inbuilt irrigation means of providing water to the plants when needed, this labour and time saving feature is increasingly becoming very popular. For larger planters, it might be worth considering mobile stands or other means of easily moving the planter around the patio area?

When it comes to size, size matters, so better to think BIG. Larger planters are more flexible because they allow the plants to develop better, look better and ultimately achieve a more balanced and appealing mature appearance. They are also usually require (because of greater capacity and less likely to ‘dry out‘) less watering than smaller pots and how often do we see stressed plants ’potbound’ because they have simply become too big and outgrown the container? Larger planters widen the choice of plants from which to choose, allow us to plant up more plants and achieve more impressive results with interesting combinations.

There is a wide selection of planters now available in a range of sizes, shapes, finishes, colours and materials. So whether the preferred style is cottage gardening or post-modern, planters can bring interest and have real impact in our efforts to enhance the indoor/outdoor areas of our living/working garden environments.

Selling the house? Give it ‘Kerb Appeal’!

Posted on February 8th, 2009

Giving the house an extra bit of TLC (tender loving care) before putting it on the market will make all the difference to the sale, says garden landscaper, Owen Chubb. “Today outdoor living has become more of a priority and it’s not surprising that many consider the garden a critically important aspect when buying a house.”

Specifically, Owen advises would-be house sellers to:

Kerb Appeal:
Research figures show that when it comes to viewings, prospective buyers form an opinion within 30 seconds of seeing the property’s exterior. Referred to as ‘Kerb Appeal’, how the buyers initially react to the exterior can have a major impact on eventual interest. Since the exterior is the first thing a buyer will see, first impressions are very important. This critical 30 seconds could make the difference between a sale and disappointment. An effective use of colour and style should provide a seamless transition from the house interior to the ‘outdoor room’ or garden areas.

Take the dog for a walk!
To get some ideas on where to start, Owen advises sellers to take some time to walk around their local area and see how their house compares. Is the garden above/below average standard for the area? Are the fencing, paintwork and paved areas in good condition? Are trees and shrubs neat and tidy? Are lawn areas groomed, green and refreshing or simply jaded weedy patches? “Once you have surveyed your surroundings, and have both an idea of what is popular and in keeping with the other houses, you need to make yours stand out from all the others,” he says.

Ensure the Grass is Always Greener
Lawns should be in good condition, evenly cut with crisp, well-defined edges, weeded and cleared of all grass cuttings and fallen leaves. If the colour is not vivid, consider feeding with lawn fertiliser. If the problems are more serious and lawn is infested with weeds, it might be better to replace old lawn with new turf. A well maintained groomed lawn – whatever the size – makes a striking impression.

Stop and Smell the Roses
Make the garden a bright, airy and appealing place to be. This is easily achieved by dead-heading old flowers, trimming and pruning shrubs and trees, especially those that are low hanging or overgrown – especially around windows and over footpaths.

Spring sees the start of the new gardening year. Garden centres are bursting with plants, flowers and bulbs which are all great for bright, eye-catching displays.

When planting, don’t underestimate the power of scent which can be an exciting experience in the garden. Owen advises to try planting scented shrubs near windows or better still near seating areas and along footpath edges. There are plenty of plant types to choose from including Shrubs, herbaceous and Herbs, e.g., Lavenders, Santolinas, Helichrysums, Lillies, Roses, Dill, Thyme, Rosemary etc.

Keep the Focus
Create a focal point in order to draw the buyer’s eye and give the garden a purpose – and again, this is easily done with a strategically placed bench, water feature or sculpture.

Containers add drama to the entrance of a house. Choose them to complement their surroundings. “Invest a little extra money in the containers as remember, when you sell your house, you can take them with you,” says Owen. Avoid small pots – they don’t hold many plants and tend to dry out very quickly. Terracotta, stoneware and glazed containers are relatively inexpensive and come in all shapes and sizes.

Social Areas
Make the most of the patio – an illusion of a larger space can be created by investing in a small ‘Tea for Two’ table. Candles add some romance to the patio so sellers should try to have some lighting when the house is viewed.

A small investment can result in a face lift for the patio – hire a power washer to remove accumulated surface grime and moss. The power washer will even pull up some of the smaller weeds, saving some back ache! A few strategically positioned colourful planters can have a dramatic effect at or near Patio areas or in overlooked recessed areas.

Other tips include:

A New Lawn with roll turf

Posted on January 25th, 2009

Fed up with the constant battling of trying to defeat weeds in a patchy lawn? Well, you’d be surprised how quickly a jaded weedy patch can be replaced by a glorious eye catching lush green lawn, that not only makes the garden beautiful but perhaps even bigger. For professional tips on how to achieve the perfect finish, read on.

When it comes to replacement, the three key decisions relate to timing, when can the work be undertaken? Which will give better results seeded or roll turf and finally cost, what is the most cost effective way of replacing an old lawn? First of all, a new lawn especially a roll turf lawn can be installed pretty much any time of the year except of course during very cold and/or wet spells. On the other hand, a seeded lawn is best done during April-October, when the ground conditions are drier and soil temperatures are a little warmer. The ground preparations for both methods is identical. The new lawn requires good ground preparation. A seeded solution will take longer to develop and if the ground preparation have not been carefully completed, weeds are likely to appear very soon and prove to be tough competitors with the new grass shoots compete for valuable soil moisture and nutrients. The time and effort involved from seeding to lawn becoming established can be several months before a firm, hard wearing attractive surface is achieved. Roll turf on the other hand can become very established within a matter of only a few weeks, and within a month should be well able to withstand all the rough and tumble of children playing football etc. But for many people the main reason for preferring roll turf to seed is very clear. Roll turf have the distinct advantage of having the ‘finished look’ when completed. The only aftercare during the initial weeks involves keeping the grass moist but this will also apply to a seeded area.

If you wish to replace/install a new lawn, here are a few useful tips:

• Remove existing lawn (Tip: prior to commencement of works, spray old grass with a systemic weedkiller) in a small area, a flat spade should be adequate, for larger areas, consider hiring a sod cutter machine

• Dig or rotovate the soil to at least the depth of a spade, 12”/300mm

• Remove all stones, builders debris etc

• Apply a good fertiliser (e.g. pre-turfing feed) to area by raking into the soil

• Rake the area to produce an even smooth level and a fine tilth finish to surface

• Water the area well and allow it to settle

• Prior to installing the new lawn, ensure the are is generally dry.

Installing the new Lawn

Ideally new roll turf should be installed as soon as possible after delivery, if for any reason, this is not possible, roll turf may be rolled out onto a flat surface and if kept moist, can be stored in this fashion for up to 48 hours. Under no circumstances are the individual sods to be left rolled up for an extended period as new grass will quickly deteriorate and turn yellow.

• Begin by the laying the sod along the longest straight line, and ensure that subsequent lines are staggered, i.e. row 1 starts with a full roll length, row 2 starts with a half roll length and roll 3 starts with a full row length

• Push edges together and ensure all joints are well butted, a sharp knife will be required to cut sods ( I find an Old Bread Knife ideal). Avoid any small cuts as these will tend to be poor at retaining moisture and will dry out very quickly. Instead adjust lengths of last two rolls so that the end piece is not narrower than 12”/300mm wide

• Avoid during installation walking on the new turf, use wide boards or plywood sheeting

• After installation is completed, water well and continue daily until approx 2 weeks by which time the new sods should have become well knitted and rooted in the ground

Aftercare for the new Lawn

To retain the vivid green lush look of a new lawn and good healthy grass growth:

• Continue feeding the lawn every six weeks during the growing season (April-October) and do not forget to apply a winter feed later in year (which is a specially formulated feed to ensure strong root development)

• It is very important during the initial few months that the new lawn does not dry out, so if necessary water regularly

• Do not allow the grass become too long and generally avoid cutting the new lawn shorter than 2”/50mm. Frequent cutting (except during wet spells) is ideal to maintaining a beautiful finish.

Enjoying the ‘cut and come’ of Herbs

Posted on January 5th, 2009

The great thing about Herbs is that they can be grown practically anywhere in the garden, but best in the sun. If grown in free draining soil, they will reward you with a delightful display of aromatic and colourful foliage. Little wonder that more and more of us want to start discovering the culinary delights of freshly cut Herbs direct from our own garden.

Whatever your interest, growing herbs is easy, and only a little planning is all that is required in order to maintain this perennial garden delight. Every garden deserves an herb garden, even if this means a few pots or tubs, or simply a window box crammed with parsley, thyme and chives.

Although some herbs like Rosemary or Fennell can grow happily for years, most need to be renewed every 2-3 years, whilst others like Sage or Dill can be grown from seed or cuttings each year.

But how many herbs do I require to start an herb garden? Some herbs like fennel grow quite big 1500mm tall whereas parsley or thyme will not grow taller than 150mm – 200mm. Best to go for a head start, so buy some young herb plants rather than seeds, at least that way you won’t end up with twenty of the one variety! Pick a sunny site and start planting! For the smaller varieties consider planting more than one, but this will depend on personal choice.

So what do I use to stock my new Herb garden? Well there’s a huge range, but select varieties you will use and enjoy. Here’s a list of the more popular varieties:

• Parsley (available in various varieties flat leaf and curly leaf) use both types in a range of meat and vegetable dishes. A small plant.

• Thyme, fabulous aroma and used to flavour almost any dish. A small plant.

• Chives, a very small but simple to grow herb. A real easy ‘cut and come’ plant, simply use fresh chives to add a mild onion flavour to food and salads.

• Mint – spearmint or Bowles mint (this plant can be invasive, to control root spread/growth, plant in a plastic tub in the ground).

• French Tarragon is a delicate upright plant, but excellent for flavouring fish, salads etc.

• Green Sage, great with stuffings and Pasta.

• Fennell a very hardy large self seeding plant. Used to flavour a wide range including fish, eggs, cheese, vegetables etc. The leaves and bulb have a lovely aniseed flavour which is popular with many.

• Lemon Balm used in iced drinks and hot teas. Like mint, can spread rapidly so plant in a container in the ground.

• Golden Marjoram can be used in meat stuffings.

• Oregano, add to all Italian style sauces.

• Dill, very popular herb with the leaves and seeds used to flavour pickles, cucumber and fish dishes. A tall plant with feather like foliage.

• Chervil, a little similar to Parsley in appearance with a delicate spicy fragrance and used in soups, sauces and salads.

• Basil or Sweet Basil, is a pleasant smelling annual plant with a spicy taste. Great with all tomatoe dishes.

• Rosemary fantastic to flavour Lamb, poultry, roasted or barbequed.

• Bay with its aromatic leaves is a very large plant and popular to add flavour to a number of dishes including fish, soups and especially French casseroles. Don’t forget to discard the leaves before serving food!

Sometimes the Herb garden can look a little jaded over the winter months. To avoid this why not add a little more structure by planting the perimeter with Buxus Sempervirens, which can be clipped tightly to provide an all year round smart green planted perimeter. Use Bay Leaf Standards or Mopheads to add a formal look and visual interest at head height. Plant you favourite herbs inside the perimeter. Remember herbs are best grown in a sunny location and if used in Kitchen, plant near House. If space is limited, you can also plant herbs in amongst the shrubs or in containers. Plant in groups of 3-5 for added impact.

General Garden Care (Mulching)

Posted on December 21st, 2008

Here are practical tips on specific aspects of general garden care although some items might be considered routine, your efforts will be rewarded with better performance and enduring beautiful results.

MULCHING

Although there is a growing list of materials from which to choose, including bark (at least 3 different grades: fine, mini, medium), rubber chip, coloured wood chip, stone/pebble, slate, glass etc, it is probably fair to say that bark mulch is still by far the preferred top dressing for planted areas. But how much and how often does one apply mulch?

The recommended depth for a mulch dressing is 30mm-50mm (approx 1-2 inches) which is generally applied to all newly (as well as established)planted areas. Bark mulch being a natural product will decompose over time, faster in drier weather and blowing around during windy spells. Although it can and does look very smart on planted areas it doesn’t last forever and annual top ups are necessary. Avoid over doing the depth, too much is likely to cause problems for plants, excess moisture in poorly drained soils, reduce oxygen levels in soil etc
Less is more and if you stay within recommended levels, good moisture retention and weed control can be achieved.

When to apply – plan to top up on an annual basis, but avoid applying mulch too early,ie, avoid the risk of trapping excess moisture in soil which will cause problems for plants. Wait until the very wet spells have passed and the soil has had a chance to dry ou. Apply in early May or early June.

Apart from planted areas, mulch can be very effective around specimen trees and shrubs, provide good definition of ring beds at base but also helps to prevent grass encroaching around stem and subsequent risk of damage by strimming or mowing etc.

Why not make your own compost to add to your mulch dressing, not only will it reduce the cost but also add valuable nutrients to the soil as well as help to improve the overall aesthetics.

Go for the ‘top of the range’ and make your compost corner an attractive feature. No need to hide plastic tubs or rotting heaps at the bottom of the garden anymore. The Beehive Composter is designed to meet the requirements of the discerning user and is an excellent composter particularly for townhouse gardens where ‘form comes before function’. It can also be used as an attractive garden tidy/store for tools etc. Quality of workmanship and finishing sets our beehive composters apart. Choose from the very popular flatpack or one of our ready assembled models. Our Beehive Composters are supplied in natural ready for you to paint or stain in the colour of your choice.
We believe our beehive composter is the best quality available with a high level of workmanship and finishing. It’s constructed from mahogany WBP ply which will give a longer outdoor life. In addition, solid brass hinges and screws are used for the lid.
The composter has a capacity of approx 230 litres, measures 560×560 x880, and comes with a hinged lid for ease of depositing all manner of household and garden waste. The completed compost is removed via a panel at the bottom.
The Beehive Composter will make a beautiful design statement in any garden.
PRICES (incl VAT) from €149.99 (FLATPACK). Available from: http://www.owenchubblandscapers.com/shop

Sustaining a working Garden

Posted on January 9th, 2008

Garden Advice and tips on starting an eco-friendly garden and more. Also growing your own fruit and vegetables not only helps the environment, your pocket and it tastes a lot better too.

DNG: City & Town, Issue 47 Autumn 2007 (pdf).