Garden design, garden planning, garden layout, planting plants and planting schemes

Garden Fencing with appealing colour and style

Posted on June 27th, 2009

Here are a few ’Before’ photographs of an average sub-urban garden containing few if any focal points, an adhoc planting scheme, a rather drab looking cobblelock Patio and a site boundary which fails to enhance or define the overall view but seems to underline the juxtapositioning of all else in the garden space?

An early but key design objective was to refine the boundary with a  solution which would feature clean lines and yet be discreet and compliment the proposed planting scheme and new site layout. The garden shed was relocated from the sunniest corner to the most shaded corner. Pressure treated timber cladding was used on both the left and right hand boundaries and pressure treated trellis panels (for additional height and screening) were used on rear wall. To achieve a more coherent background look, all timbers including Garden Shed were painted, in this instance a dark green.

The choice of the garden fencing style works well here and the colour selected for fence painting is one of the more appealing visual images from this particular project. Also to be seen is Indian Sandstone paving and setts were used here and featuring circular layouts and gentle sweeps to contrast favourably with the more dominant ‘linear’ garden layout. 

Although the Rotary Clothes line was replaced, it’s position in the new layout was unchanged.

Planter gardening

Posted on June 25th, 2009

Here are a few photographic examples from a recent project in which the client required an instant but attractive garden featuring subtle tones. The task was to design  a planting scheme using a Planter layout which would provide some screening of patio areas but also good access and visibility to lawn and wider garden areas. 

Here we feature a range of specimen plants in an eye catching arrangement whilst exploiting the unique modular design features of the Deroma Repeat Planter range. 

The Deroma Repeat series is available from GARDENSTUDIO, Terenure, Dublin 6W. For more details: info@owenchubblandscapers.com

Colourful Borders – Planning for a riot

Posted on March 28th, 2009

If you start with a good plan, it is possible without much effort, to fill your garden with exciting and riotous colour from spring right through until the year’s end.

Most people agree that early flowering bulbs have a vital role in providing colour and cheer in early spring gardens, so much so that it is hard to imagine a spring garden without bulbs? But bulb planting although for many associated with springtime is more than a single season option to providing colour. With only a small degree of planning, it is possible to have a continuous and riotous display of colour through summer starting with Alliums in May and June, Lilies in July, Dahlias and Cannas in August and Nerines from September onwards.

Late spring is the ideal time to complete the groundwork and most summer flowering bulbs are planted now. There is so much choice now available from the local Garden Centres, that any colour combination is possible. Subtle soft colour shades mixed with striking feathery ornamental grasses and sedges makes for stunning compositions.

For a softer, paler perhaps white summer display one could consider a scheme including Allium tuberosum, mixed with white irises and countless options on white lilies. The outstanding flowers of Agapanthus ‘Glacier stream’ (better planted in a container in the border in order to restrict root and foliage growth and generate better blooms). For gardeners who prefer to add drama to a dappled area, it would be very difficult to beat the outstanding architectural showstoppers: Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ or Allium christophii, Allium schubertii and of course the quintessential King of Alliums Allium giganteum.

When it comes to planning colour, fortune favours the brave.

On the edge – adding glamour

Posted on December 22nd, 2008

Ideally one should remove the bulbs from sales packaging as soon as possible after purchasing, otherwise they will rot especially in sealed plastic bags. Store bulbs in a dry and frost free place until you are ready to plant. Ensure the ground has been prepared in advance, i.e. well dug and free draining. Add some compost and fish, bone & blood fertiliser.

Plant bulbs ‘nose up’ at the depth and spacing to suit variety (check packaging for details). Cover with compost/soil and press down firmly to eliminate any air pockets. Water well and mark. Add some horticultural sand or grit to improve drainage under bulbs and offer some protection against possible slug and snail damage.

Formal displays can be attractive but bulbs are at their very best when planted in random groups or colonies. This is especially true when planted in lawn areas. Simply scatter bulbs, lift a layer of turf with a spade and dig a hole. Plant as outlined earlier, replace turf and water well. For best effect, concentrate the naturalised drift around trees and also in corners of lawns so as to make mowing around the area easier.

Remove dead flower heads to encourage further flowering. Taller plants like Lily, Dahlia and Gladioli will require support with canes. Repeat feeding after flowering to provide nutrients for the production of next year’s crop. Food contained in the foliage, returns to the bulbs after flowering. Do not cut leaves, to tidy simply tie in a bundle and wait until the leaves have gone completely brown before removing.

After a number of years, expect some congestion and overcrowding of bulbs especially with Daffodils and Narcissi. When this happens, simply dig and remove bulbs and divide with spade. During winter top dress area with a layer of bark mulch to protect Nerines, Lilies and Agapanthus from frost. Some bulbs including summer flowering varieties like Begonias should be removed
Before onset of frost. Simply dig up, remove all foliage and clean off soil. Allow to dry for a few days before storing them away in a cool, dry and frost free area.

Using Planters for Winter Colour

Posted on December 15th, 2008

A very simple but effective way to achieve a colourful impact in your garden during the winter months is to spruce up the area with some carefully selected planters packed with attractive shrubs full with seasonal colours. Some simple rules apply and success is practically guaranteed. Here leading landscaper Owen Chubb offers readers some practical professional advice on what you need to do to bring colour to your Winter garden.

By the time December arrives, many believe the gardening year is at an end? Not so! Although many gardens are distinct by the lack of colour, most of the deciduous plant stock has shed leaf at this stage and the herbaceous perennials have gone to ground for the dormant season. But gardens need not look so gloomy and here are some simple tips to help put the colour back into the garden. Before you begin, some basic planning is required.

Plants – choose wisely, remember to select plants that look good or their best during the winter months. Choose plants with interesting foliage or better still select varieties which flower at this time of year, there are many to choose from including Skimmia, Coprosma, Hellebores, Mahonia, Cyclamens etc.

Size Matters – yes, select planters that provide adequate space for rootball to develop, avoid planting tall and large plants in shallow planters, or planting compact ground cover plants in large planters.

Form & Colour – applies not just to the plants, size and shape also applies to planters. There is such an array of planters from which to choose. Try clustering planters in groups, in Cottage gardens, a range of sizes can look particularly attractive, whereas in a more architectural formal garden, using one size can reinforce the desired effect.

Planting for impact

Here are some suggestions for interesting combinations:

• Cordyline (tenax) underplanted with the vibrant almost neon like yellow striped Acorus ogon

• For a more architectural look, try planting a specimen plant such as a Half Standard (ie Lollipop form) several varieties to choose from including Bay Laurel, Holly, Camelia etc and underplant with Buxus Sempervirens (common Box) or Euonymous Gaiety. Underplanting should be clipped to reflect the formal look.

• A classic seasonal look, try Skimmia japonica Rubella, with its rich green tapered leaves and masses of flowers/berries. Underplant with the green and yellow striped Carex Evergold.

• Pack extra punch in smaller containers but masses of vibrant colour, try the vibrant red tinged foliage of Hebe Heartbreaker as feature plant and mix with the striking black grass like leaf of Ophiopogon Nigrescens.

• In sheltered areas, Nandina Domestica with its varied foliage colours of green, yellow and red with its masses of red berries can look stunning when combined with the striking bright yellow foliage of Acorus ogon.

• The silver spiked leaves of Astelia Silver Spears provide some seasonal glitter when underplanted with the light green variagated foliage of the dwarf Skimmia Merlot complete with its red berries.

• A striking opulent colour effect can be achieved with a specimen of Phormium Yellow wave mixed with the rich vivid purple colour of Heuchera Palace Purple.

• One of my favourite combinations is to use a specimen half standard olive tree, underplant with Acorus ogon and cyclamens. And for a mesmerizing effect during hours of darkness to place an uplighter in the planter and white light streaking through the silver blue green hues of the olive tree produces an unforgettable Christmas effect.

Many other combinations are possible even with the inclusion of seasonal bulbs and seasonal flowers including cyclamens, hyacinths, winter pansies etc. With some simple planning, striking colour combinations can be achieved and all designed to give a much needed lift to the otherwise drab appearance of winter gardens. Select containers with interesting profiles and colour which will extend the contrast with preferred planting colour schemes.

Finally do not forget to water and apply some feed to the planters to avoid any drying out. It may not be sunny but it is surprising how gentle winds can dry out planters.

A DAY IN THE LIFE …of a landscaper (Day 7)

Posted on September 17th, 2008

With the weather on our side and a smile on our faces, Day 7 began the paving of the top level patio. As is standard practice by us, we always lay our natural stone paving (sandstone, limestone and granite) on a 30-50mm (Patio areas) wet bed of sand and cement, with a mix ratio of 4-5:1 (sand: cement). We do not use dabs, paving grits or dry mixes. Our technique which also involves brushing the underside of the slab with a wet brush (to give good adhesion and a very strong bond) may cost a little more, and require a little more time to install, but we know very well, once laid the paving is perfect.

For a beautiful and consistent finish we only use solid sandstone kerbs/risers for the steps. Once the levels have been determined between Acco drains at Patio doors and the nearest step, we calculate finish heights for the sandstone risers (the vertical part of the steps). Calculations must take account of our typical falls of 1mm in 100mm (i.e. 1%). Normally but sometimes it may not always be possible, we would set the falls (surface or rain water run-off) away from buildings. It is important to note that Sandstone paving will also vary considerably in thickness from 25-50mm. So in order to achieve a uniform fall/level as well as a consistent appearance to the threads (i.e. top of steps), we would set aside slabs that would be of reasonable comparable thickness. Any marginal variance in slab thickness can be made up by adjustments to the depth of the bedding mortar.

Sandstone Risers.

Sandstone Risers.

Sandstone Paving.

AJ Recess Frame in-situ.

Detail showing mitres at Risers.

Patio at Top level beginning to take shape.

Detail showing block bases for lower thread + risers.

By the close of Day 7, the top level patio was slowly but surely beginning to emerge and take shape. Much done but a lot more to do, so to speak.

Planting Driveways

Posted on August 10th, 2008

When planning Driveways (Front Gardens), it does seem inevitable that in most cases that the parking of cars will take precedence over the ‘garden area’ and that the space allocated to parking of cars is much more important than the areas for lawn or plants! This inevitability is probably not too surprising, especially where the amount of space available is not too generous, but in cases where there is lots of space for both, the same trends are also tending to be driven by owners preference for ‘low maintenance’ solutions. But whether there is no space or no time, there is no excuse for drab, dull, even lifeless Driveways. For many owners, it is certainly a challenge to find a pleasing solution, ie ample space for parking and sufficent planting to be attractive. There are a number of idaes which can be utilise to improve overall gardening appeal, lawn, large or small, green is pleasing and eye catching, raised beds can also give added impetus to smaller planted areas, and in severe cases where there is no planting possibilities, nice planters or containers can be very effective to create a softer look.

Some owners clearly love their gardens and take great pride and devote attention to create and maintain a beautiful front garden. Driveways and Front gardens are important aspects of the property, but also critical for ‘Kerb appeal’ when it comes to selling the property. Front Gardens provide a great opportunity to frame the house with practical parking and complimentary planting.

For some the preferred choice is the minimalist approach, in other words, wall to wall hard surfaces or similar paving, cobble lock, patterned concrete and increasingly simple gravelled surfaces. Tarmac is thankfully no longer as common in urban areas, but in fairness when it’s done right and within an overall well developed plan/design, not the worse of finishes. But sadly I suppose the demise of tarmac has more to do with well publicised examples of unscrupulous traders and poor workmanship.

In many cases the typical Driveway/Front Garden is limited in size, car parking dominates space and planting is a poor second. Driveway finishes will vary and many options from which to choose. Many will select one of four popular options (Natural Paving, cobbleock, gravel, and concrete). Budget permitting, the preferred choice for many owners would be natural stone paving (Granite, Limestone, Sandstone). The intrinsic qualitie sand strength of natural stone paving is very popular, this might be the refined but hardwearing elegance of granite, or the rustic charming colour tones complete with fossil elements of sandstone or the rippling textured surfaces of limestone. A more cost effective solution is a combination of natural stone paving and stone chippings/pebble. Where there is considerable traffic, I would personally prefer Granite as a more sophisticated and durable stone and one which surprisingly requires little maintenance to retain its original beauty.

Designing Driveways or Front Gardens offers enormous scope for selecting plants. Even with much of the available space being allocated to the car(s), one can still choose plants to suit any layout including hedges which traditionally used for boundaries and privacy (some favourites here include Taxus- CommonYew, Prunus Lusitanica – Portuguese Laurel, and Photinia – Red Robin). Trees, shrubs and Hedges are not only good for defining the boundaries, or creating privacy but can also be use dot great effect to create compartments/spaces especially within the larger gardens.

Some Driveway Design Tips

If you’re constructing from the start, try and find space no matter how small for some planting, whether this be some architectural/specimen plant and/or a modest shrubbery and/or herbaceous border. One can also use different size containers to add colour and interest. Me, I would always prefer to compromise some colour and select evergreen shrubs over herbaceous/deciduous planting. Looking good all year especially during our long dormant season is more important than some less herbaceous perennials in the borders during the summer months. Also herbaceous plants in a lot instances require regular work to maintain an optimum performance. Ideally if space allows, a lush green lawn is a perfect partner for the Driveway and specimen and perimeter planting for visual impact.

Plan the Driveway layout so that the cars do not obstruct the pedestrian access footpaths and green spaces are positioned to optimum effect. How often do you see the paths dissect the Driveway, no need really, in fact a winding path can be more effective and introduce the visitor to the garden in a more visually stimulating way. Planning layouts which keeps pathways clears of cars is especially important in gravel driveways.

It is very important to give careful consideration to selecting the right Driveway gravel. Remember pebbles with their characteristic rounded appearance may look more attractive but are more suitable to ornamental areas, i.e., where there is little or no pedestrian or car traffic. Being rounded they never lock and are therefore impossible to compact, just think how difficult it can be to walk on a pebbled beach. Pulling Wheelie Bins or pushing Baby Strollers over pebbles is equally very difficult, whilst cars tend to create ridges which become very unsightly. If you prefer a gravelled area, select a chipped stone and there are many sizes, shapes and colours from which to choose.

Selecting plants for the Driveway is just as challenging for the Rear garden, I mean the choice is almost endless, and with newer more compact varieties becoming available every year, there is really no excuse for not having an interesting looking Driveway. Aim to achieve balance between the openness of the area and the planted spaces; a lush vivid planting scheme is surely a warm welcome to any Driveway. Apart from ground conditions, site aspects, planting selection can be a very personal matter, but as stated, better to err on the side of caution, looking good all year, low maintenance but even so, you can still achieve visual interest. Some of our personal favourites would include the following:

• • Specimen Trees: Olive Tree, Sorbus Acuparia Autumn Spire, Laurus Nobilis (Bay), Ilex (Holly), Chamerops and Amelanchier Ballerina.
• • Shrubs for screening/Boundaries: Cotoneaster Cornubia, Photinia, Prunus Lusitanica, Taxus, Mahonia Charity, Camellia and Pittosporum Tom Thumb.
• • Low Level Shrubs: Buxus, Lavender Hidcote, Andromeda Blue Ice, Hebe Frozen Flame, Pachysandra Terminalis, Pieris jap Katsura, and Halmium Libanotis.

For a more traditional but nonetheless distinctive look, a Rose garden featuring Rose Standard forms and Flower Carpet Ground cover creates an excellent coherent look with the added bonus of scent. Some maintenance is required, not a lot, but most will die back for the winter months.

So no matter what the size of your site is, small, medium or large, there is no excuse for not having a stimulating Front garden and a practical Driveway. Careful planning and some thoughtful consideration, it should be possible to specimen tree (s), shrubs and some herbaceous perennials or ground cover in your garden to produce a surprisingly varied but interesting composition with a rich variety of colour, form and texture.
And the great thing is that if you make a ‘mistake’ or wish to change the order of things, well it’s quite easy to do. So go ahead and experiment and bring the garden back into Driveways!

Enjoy low maintenance planting with colour and form

Posted on July 21st, 2008

More tips on some of our favourite plants, two groups which we use quite extensively in our planting schemes especially for low maintenance gardens: Hebes and Ornamental Grasses. Although both of these groups are very well established with many traditional and popular varieties to choose from, in recent years some fantastic new very colourful and compact growing varieties have also become available. Hebes boast stunning colourful leaf and together with a long flowering period with a possible second flush in September following a light trim, makes them ideal for all gardens but especially the smaller gardens where space is a premium and all year round colour and interest an essential prerequisite. Our favourite Hebes include:

Hebe ‘Magic Summer’

A spherical growth habit and growing to approximately 80cm (just under 3’ 0”) in height and 100cm (just over 3’0” in width). The leaves are greyish white and in winter and spring time change colour to deep purple. In summer elongated light purple flowers appear. Spent flowers should be removed, and this plant likes a well-drained soil and a sheltered spot. Lightly prune (light clip) in early summer. This plant is reasonably hardy and is suitable for planting in the garden, balcony or patio containers.

Hebe ‘Goldrush’

An unusual Hebe that reaches a height of 30-40cm (12”-15”) and a fabulous plant for the garden, balcony or patio container. The growing points are a beautiful yellow colour and in late spring and in early summer the plant produces pink flowers, which are really pretty and eye catching. In early spring the growing points are reddish, forming a striking contrast with the yellow foliage. Hebe ‘Goldrush’ should be planted in a sheltered spot, in well drained soil. Trim lightly and dead head after flowering.

Fuchsia diva ‘Whitney’

Growing only 20cm high and 25 cm wide (< 12”) this fuchsia is ideal for in bedding displays, summer containers or at the front of a mixed shrubbery. Best planted individually or in irregular groups, Fuchsia diva ‘Whitney’ is an ideal compact early flowering fuchsia and an easy to maintain plant. Preferring sun or partial shade in a well drained soil, you’re guaranteed a profusion of pink and violet flowers in summer. Tip: after planting, the rootball should be marginally below the soil surface. Water well after planting.

Acorus gram. Ogon

One of the best in its class, with a bright yellow leaf and central green or white stripe, is a low growing ornamental grass. It is a very decorative plant with several good qualities. Low growing, so perfect for the smaller garden (we plant them regularly in water features and rockeries). Flowering panicles from May to October. A relatively trouble free and easy plant, position in sun or part shade. Cut of panicles after the flowering. Tip: makes a striking edging along the front of a flower bed.

Sesleria caerulea

One to find but well worth the search. This blue moor grass forms basal mounds of blue foliage, topped by small spike like panicles. Grows to 30cm (12”) tall and best in full sun or light shade. Flowers from March to May and is planted to great effect in groups as groundcover or individually around water features. Evergreen and impressive.

Adding some style and comfort to your garden

Posted on July 21st, 2008

We often hear “Quality counts but that quality can also be expensive”, but adding mundane or inferior products is ultimately a much more expensive way to spend money. When it comes to selecting quality products for the garden, it pays to invest in well designed and well made products. Design isn’t just about looking well, working well is also important, so too durability, compatability, ergonomics etc. As the gardens become more sophisticated outdoor areas, consumers increasingly demand/expect more from garden products.

One of the greatest of pleasures of being in the garden is to lounge around, lie down or just simply hang out. For many relaxing and getting comfortable with family and friends or simply alone is a popular pleasure.

For me, simply sitting in a very comfortable garden seat is a great pleasure and one which I enjoy immensely. No wonder chairs and sun loungers are such critical furniture elements in every garden.

But good furniture is not only well made, robust, and comfortable, good furniture can also be iconic and influence our views on the overall look of the garden. Iconic designs can make a big statement about the overall design.

Garden furniture has evolved from the traditional ‘Park Bench’ to a much more diverse range of styles, shapes and sizes from a myriad of materials, manufacturing/construction processes from traditional handcrafted to sophisticated manufacturing methods. Garden furniture must not only look and feel good, it must also be very durable and ideally require little or no maintenance. In other words furniture that is comfortable and which can be left outdoors all the time is increasingly popular.

At this point I would like to plug our ‘Orb Swing Seat’ a product which apart from being fantastic looking but is an excellent example of what well designed garden furniture can achieve, and inspire. Being made from pressure treated timbers are weatherproofed means that they can be left outdoors all year. In addition to the quality of manufacturing, they are unashamedly nice examples of garden furniture engineering. On the more pleasurable side they are incredibly good looking and comfortable to sit in. And do they look fantastic? The ‘Orb Swing Seat’ is a very good example of how well designed garden furniture can not only be iconic but help upgrade the design of your garden.

Plant Tips

Selecting the right plant is not always easy and straightforward, many factors need to be considered when trying to decide. For example, my preference will be influenced by the degree of maintenance a plant might require. Other criteria would include evergreen over deciduous, interesting form and leaf colour, especially important during the dormant season when gardens can be lacking in impact. So it seems a good idea for now to start a list of my favourite plants, provide some plant details/description, growth height and spread, suitable/typical planting positions and any notable features. Hopefully you might find something that will interest you and prove suitable for your garden.

Pieris japonica Katsura

A relative newcomer from Japan to the large Pieris (Forest Flame) assortment. It is evergreen, with striking, deep wine red growing tips. The plant produces clusters of pink flowers with red calyxes in early spring. An ideal ornamental shrub which is perfect in the garden, or in a container for patio/balcony. Position in sun or part shade. It reaches a height of approx. 60-65cm/2’ 0”. Planting in ericaceous compost/soil is recommended and note harmful if eaten.

This plant is definitely one of our favourites and a very popular choice in specimen and block planting schemes.

Rediscover the magic and romance of Summer Roses.

Posted on July 12th, 2008

Once roses were extremely popular and to be found in practically every garden. Although many people still admire and enjoy roses, their popularity has in recent years diminished as many find it increasingly difficult to find the time and effort to maintain such plants. Undoubtedly a plant of great beauty and some with heavenly scent but many varieties demand regular attention to ensure healthy condition and optimum performance. For many gardeners roses would not be considered an eligible member of the ‘low maintenance’ plant group whilst for others the various pests and disease problems associated with roses undermined the plant’s popularity. This is a great pity because roses are true romantics within the garden area and despite the ‘problems’ are very reliable for putting on a fantastic displays during the summer months of June and July.

Fortunately for the many time poor gardeners, some new exciting rose varieties are now available which demand little maintenance or effort. A number of varieties including the popular ‘Flower Carpet’ which come in a range of colours including Pink, Sunshine, Coral, Red Velvet and White, offer a long flowering season, rich green foliage, compact bush habit (Height approx 600mm and allow 3 plants/m²) and are naturally disease resistant, making them ideal for any time poor ‘low maintenance’ gardeners. Ideally planted in a sunny site, prepare ground by adding plenty of well rotted manure or soil conditioner/compost to loosen soil. Dig large hole, place plant in position and level with surrounding soil. Firm ground around plant, fork in a quality rose food into moistened soil. Keep plants moist during dry warm spells and an occasional trim will ensure prolific flowering into the autumn. The compact ‘Flower Carpet’ roses are ideal for even the smallest of gardens, contemporary or traditional, in beds, borders or planters, the compact carpet rose are guaranteed to have instant appeal.

For pure magic and romance, few plants can compete with Summer Roses. ‘Flower Carpet’ range should be available in all good Garden Centres.